Trips, Temples and Tears

It’s our last week cheering for the Delhi Daredevils! I can’t believe how fast this job has gone. It’s been one of the standout experiences of my life for good reasons and bad. If you’ve been to India before I’m sure you’ll understand that the last 6 weeks have been full of dizzying highs and devastating lows. I didn’t think I could pack so much adventure, laughs, travels, performances, drama, tears and mosquito bites into just 7 weeks.

So we wanted to see a little bit more of Delhi then just our house, the airport and our local bar and we took a day to hit up some of our nearby temples. One of the most famous in Delhi is the Baha’í House of Worship aka The Lotus 20180503_135559Temple, named for its incredible architecture. It literally just looks like a giant white lotus flower and apparently it’s actually the most visited building in the world. The Bahá’í Faith teaches that a Bahá’í House of Worship should be a space for people of all religions to gather, reflect, and worship. Anyone  can enter the Lotus Temple regardless  of religious background, sex, or other distinctions, which is the same with all Bahá’í Houses of Worship. Knowing this in advance we expected to have a lovely peaceful time there. But what we didn’t know, was exactly how popular a place it actually is. All we wanted was a group photo of us in front of this stunning building but it seemed 7 white girls lined up in front of if was an invitation for the rest of the crowds to whip out their phones and act like red carpet paparazzi. Most of the time we are happy to take photos of people if they ask nicely but this felt intrusive and rude. Parents were shoving their kids towards us to get them in a shot with us and shouting at us to look towards them… they didn’t even know we were IPL cheerleaders. Why would you want a pic of a bunch of girls you don’t know? It got pretty overwhelming and we had to be rude back to people just to get away and get on with our day. It’s such a shame because the temple was so lovely but we just wanted to leave soon after we got there.

Fortunately there was another less famous temple within walking distance so we cut through a park, stopped for an ice cream and a game of cards and made our way to the Hare Krishna Isckon Temple. And we had such a better time there! We met this lovely, friendly Hare Krishna man, from New Jersey of all places, just inside the entrance and he was curious about where we were all from etc and said he was staying at the temple and travelling India for a couple of months. We went our separate ways and wandered around the inside of the temple which was much more elaborate and FB_IMG_15266249800495705.jpgdecorative then the Lotus temple which is very simple. It was full of statues and paintings and shrines to the gods, people lying on the floor to pray and constant music and chanting of Hare Krishna. All the devotees who live there have their heads shaved and wear yellow or orange robes. And in this place, nobody cared that we were there. Nobody was gawking at us or making us feel like we didn’t belong. Then something awesome happened. We bumped into our New Jersey friend and he invited us to have dinner with him and the other devotees in the basement of the temple! Of course we said yes (besides I was starving as always). Hare Krishnas generally eat strictly vegetarian and without any onion or garlic as they believe it interferes with the mind and meditation. So we sat cross-legged on mats on the floor, men on one side and women (the few that were there) on the other. We had steel plates and the devotees who served us came along with enormous pots on wheels and spooned out delicious home made curry, naan and rice and we ate with our hands. It was one of the 20180503_171010.jpghighlights of this trip I think. No photos, no rudeness or disrespect, just people eating together without any frills. It was one of the few times I haven’t felt like a peacock on show. Also the food was so fresh and clean and home made, not like a lot of the stuff we eat here.

And of course we couldn’t come all the way to India without seeing it’s biggest icon. The Taj Mahal is in Agra which is about a 4 hour drive away from Delhi so we booked a driver and a tour guide and set off at 6.30 in the morning. And man was it worth it. I was really on the fence about going, with all the travelling and the thought that if the Lotus temple was bad, the Taj would be like a riot. But our tour guide was really great and kept us moving the entire time. And the first glimpse of that massive, marble IMG-20180507-WA0081.jpgmasterpiece really did take my breath away. It’s like a mirage or like it’s superimposed. You’ve seen so many photos of it that in real life it still doesn’t look real, it’s too perfect. So naturally we all had a full blown photo shoot with our guide knowing all the best angles and spots and basically being our creative director. And we learned all about this history of the Taj and how everything about it is perfectly symmetrical, to the point where there are two identical mosques built either side of it. And only one of them is used because the other doesn’t face Mecca! It’s made completely from white Indian marble and inlaid with semi precious stones like torqoise and onyx which makes the color change in certain light. Inside its very simple and small and all that’s in are the tombs of the queen it was built for, Mumtaz Mahal and the king who built it.

After we had photographed it (and ourselves) from every possible angle we got back in the car and our guide took us to a couple of incredible workshops. The first was a marble shop where the descendents of the Taj craftsmen still make insane art from marble and gems. They showed us exactly how they do it and how intricate and complicated it is Screenshot_2018-05-07-18-46-40.pngto inlay stones into marble. As much as I wanted to take home a massive light up dining table, I settled for a little elephant pendant inlaid with mother of pearl. We also went to Aladdins actual cave, a shop where they handwove the most ridiculous carpets I’ve ever seen in gold dipped wire and thread. They also had so much stunning gemstone jewellery that I was actually happy my wallet had been robbed on day one. And that’s not all, they took us into a back room packed with traditional musical instruments and 3 men on a sitar, drums and something that looked like a piano/accordian mash up. Basically we had a good old fashioned trad session, Indian style! They performed traditional and Bollywood songs for us and they insisted we got up to dance since our guide had given them a tip off. I could have emptied my bank account in that place. Which in hindsight is why we were brought there. Our guide gets commission from what his guests buy. Then we flopped back into the car and slept all the way to Delhi.

Unfortunately our Daredevils have been hanging out at the bottom of the leader board for the past few games but I still love performing for the Delhi fans at the matches and cheering for our lads. We actually got the opportunity to talk to BBC India about our experience working for the IPL. We rocked up to a very different stadium compared to what it looks like on match days, with all the players training and practicing on the field and the stands being hosed down. We met the reporter and camera man and they took some shots of us dancing and faffing around on the field. We got individually interviewed as well which I am dreading watching back IMG-20180512-WA0004.jpgbecause I’m sure I said something super shady like “We’re athletes just as much as the players and people need to know we’re not just there to shake pom poms and smile…”. Which is true in fairness so what the hell. If it comes out well it might go to BBC Worldwide, God help us all. It’ll be a miracle if the Indian population can understand my turf munching accent.

Besides that we also got to hang out at the number 1 golf course in India on official Daredevils business. The team owners organized this big swanky celebrity golf tournament last week to sweet talk some sponsors into coughing up more dough for next season. We’re talking India”s 1% here. They were supposed to go out and hit a few rounds of golf with our players and we had to hang around at the holes giving out spot prizes in uniform and also perform at the opening. Nothing difficult but it didn’t sound like it was gonna be too exciting. I reckon mother nature agreed because she decided to throw the 20180513_153500.jpgmightiest thunder storm I’ve ever seen at us. I thought a tornado would appear and sweep us off to Oz. But before it got too crazy the event organizer insisted on driving us around the whole course in a golf cart even while it looked like the sky was about the cave in. It was a shame for them as the course was really feckin gorgeous with waterfalls, quaries, rivers and a thousand peacocks casually strutting around. Rich people eh?! So we were deposited back at the clubhouse, posed for a million photographs, then rescued and brought up to the vip area where all the players, sponsors, management and owners of Delhi Daredevils were knocking back drinks like it was their day off, which technically it should have been. So even though we were working, when the CEO of the franchise hands you a G&T, you bloody drink it! Which led to us chatting to all the sponsors and players and finally getting to know them a little, which was actually cool. We’re kept completely separate from each other to the point where we can’t leave our dressing rooms or get in our buses at the same time for fear of what men and women will do if they interact! In fairness it makes sense because they don’t want the press to get a hold of anything that can be turned into gossip or slander against the team but it’s frustrating to be treated like a child when most of the lads are married.

We got to change out of our uniforms and go to this insanely fancy after party too which was so much fun but there is definitely such thing as too many free drinks. I was supposed to be on a flight to Kolkata at 5.45 the next morning which was definitely not high on my priority list as I was necking the chardonnay. But I did manage to get myself home and to the airport in relatively good time albeit drunk as a sailor. It all went tits up when I actually got to Departures though. In India, you can’t even enter the airport without showing your booking confirmation and my phone had died in the taxi. I tried to flirt my way in but the army officer was having none of my drunk bullshit so I had to go to the ticket desk outside the terminal and have it printed out. Unfortunately for me and a lot of other people, 3 flights with my airline had been cancelled (but not mine) so there were crowds of people going crazy trying to get refunds and new bookings… it was an absolute nightmare. I stayed there for an hour, shouting at people who kept trying to skip the queue and elbowing rude people out of my way. Not like me at all but I was drunk, alone in an Indian airport. It was dog eat dog. When I finally got my stupid ticket and made it inside, the line to check in damn luggage was also ridiculously long. I was panicking and twitching and muttering constantly as I watched the time to my flight departure melt away and when I finally made it to the desk, your man had the balls to tell me my flight had departed. I said “Sorry sir, it’s 5.30 and the flights at 5.45. Let me through, I still have time.” He point blank refused, no matter what I said to him and I had half a Boeing 747 breathing down my neck behind me so I grabbed my passport off him and stormed away. This is the first time I’ve ever missed a flight and I was SO upset. I just wanted to go straight back to my gaff and sleep but after refusing to let me enter the god damn airport, now security weren’t letting me leave. “Contact airline staff ma’am. Try the next gate ma’am.” I was like lads I’ve missed me flight just let me out! But nobody would listen to me so I just sat down in the middle of the airport and with great dignity, proceeded to drunk cry my eyes out. There’s a time and a place for drunk crying and this was it. Eventually some cop came over to me and asked if I was OK. I should have given an Oscar for the drama with which I answered him. I looked up akt him, sobbing theatrically and said, “I missed my flight. I just wanna leave this airport so I can go HOME and nobody will help me.” He was obviously like wtf get this hysterical white bitch out of my place of work and let me leave. But not before I called my long suffering sister in NYC while she was working and slurred down the phone at her in a blind panic. Shouts out Aoif for somehow always being there even when she’s 10 hours behind me. Anyway I made it home and definitely surprised my roommate Shantie when I fell in the door at 7 am. It’s a hilarious story now but God missing a flight really makes you feel like shit, especially when you’re a walking wine bag.

Which brings me to Kolkata. As I said before, I’m covering for a girl on the Rajasthan Royals team who were playing against Kolkata Knight Riders, which meant I could see my friends Dorothy and Amit again. I actually stayed with them for 3 nights and it was so nice to relax and breathe air that isn’t choked in Delhi pollution. Honestly Kolkata is such a nicer city. I met their two adorable kids and two adorable dogs, did some shopping in the markets and even subbed a class at their studio with about 30 seconds notice. Cheers for that one Amit! And of course I worked at the extra match which was weird. Didn’t feel right cheering for another team and I had absolutely zero interest in who won so it was quite boring for me. Fun to dance and do some different choreo of course but I was so not bothered about following the game when normally I’m glued to it.

So I’m now in the airport waiting for my flight back to Delhi so I can dance at our SECOND LAST match tomorrow night. I can’t  believe the end is nigh. I’m going to miss cheering and watching the 20180508_160432.jpggames SO much. The atmosphere of being in a stadium filled with sixty thousands screaming supporters is very special. But of course with all work abroad, you can’t have an amazing experience without a bitch of a drama bomb being thrown in the mix. I’m reluctant to share negative details here because nobody wants to read it mostly, not even me. Let’s just say we were under a ridiculous amount of stress for a few days with regards to our boss and I have to wonder will I ever get a contract where things run smoothly and it doesn’t push me to the edge of my tolerance and make me want to quit some days? Only time will tell!

As for what’s next, I’m off to an ashram for a 3 day yoga retreat the day after the last match and I can’t wait to have the space and time to breath, meditate, stretch and switch off from the madness of Delhi. I’m not done with India yet but your gal has been working hard and I’m sure three days break will do me the world of good and restore my energy and positivity. Talk to you when I find my inner peace and have my chakras if not life choices in alignment.

Namaste!

Dancing, drinking and daring in Delhi

Unfortunately, the Delhi Daredevils are now not going to win the IPL, after losing our last match against Chennai Super Kings. We will play until the 20th of May so that other teams can be knocked out but we will not be making it to the playoffs, which is SUCH a shame. When the team is on form, they play REALLY well. The last match they won, they had a record breaking score. DD has some of the most expensive players in the league but it wasn’t translating to wins. I’m pretty 1RAM6367.jpgdissappointed as I SO wanted to go back to Mumbai and play in the mind blowing Wankhede Stadium again, where the final will be held. However I will be playing two extra matches now, with the Rajasthan Royals team, as they are down one girl. I’m happy to do more matches but it will be so strange to cheer for another team! Delhi are my boys!! Anyway we’ll have more time for adventures now since our last match will be the 20th still.

Speaking of, we just finshed our first month of living and working in India! As always, when on contract, I feel like I’ve been here forever, these girls are my family and were totally separated from the rest of the world, in our little bubble. So here’s whats gone down in the last two weeks.

First off, we celebrated our lovely Frankies 22nd (!) birthday at home in Delhi. Fun fact, me and Frankie both worked on the On Paper showcase in London right before coming here. She choreographed an incredible piece to This Is Me from The Greatest Showman that had us all in floods of tears when we first saw it in the dress run. We didn’t cop this connection until maybe a week after we got here though. See how small the world is when youre a dancer?! So we woke her up with balloons and presents and a maybe a birthday lap dance (ahem) and we headed off for a chilled out day at the pool. Now Delhi is not a pool friendly place. There is no public swimming pool thats free to use. We had to call a million hotels and beg and plead and use the name of the IPL in vain. But we found one that (grudgingly) let us come hang out for the day. Even though there was a strong undercurrent of IMG-20180420-WA0011dissapproval from the staff (how dare they lie there peacefully without bothering anyone?!) we had a fabulously relaxing afternoon in the sun which meant we were well rested for celebrating that night. Theres an amazing bar on the corner of our block called What A Comic Show and it looks like Sheldon Coopers idea of heaven. It’s all decorated in superhero art and merch. Even the drinks have comic IMG_20180424_112838_345.jpgcharachters names. It’s super funky, the cocktails are cheap and strong and the food is delish. So we ate, drank and got very merry, then went back to ours for a few more not so sensible beverages and pretended that we didnt have a 6 am flight to catch. Ugh hungover flying is no joke.

We staggered into taxis after three hours of sleep and flew to Bangalore where we had a match against Bangalore Royal Challengers. Now imagine our reactions when 9 hungover and hangry dancers rocked up to our hotel to discover there was no booking for us?! It wasnt pretty. We got a curry stuffed into us and were schleped to IMG-20180421-WA0005another hotel where I passed out for an hour before waking up late for our taxi to the stadium. I wasn’t  looking like an ambassaor for anything excpet maybe a methadone clinic. It was just one of those days man. The lads lost the match and we realized we wouldn’t have time to go back to the hotel when it finished at midnight. So you know what we had to do. Go straight to the airport and sleep on the floor til check in opened. Then sleep in departures. Then almost leave without one of the girls because she slept so deeply and we couldnt find her and she was minutes from missing the flight. A total mess of a trip.

Safe to say we were more then happy to keep our feet on solid ground for a while. Thank God we had our first two home games back to back! We played against Kings Punjab who had already beaten us at our first match and who my friend Sophie cheers for.20180423_235350 We wanted a win at home so much but it wasn’t to be. The supporters in Delhi stadium were much more subdued then other crowds we’d performed for. I wasn’t sure if that was just Delhi or if it was because we were languishing at the bottom of the leader board. But holy shit, did that all change during our second game at home, against Kolkata Knight Riders. First of all, we totally hammered them, cricket wise so everyone was super hyped and excited including us. But the fans? They went crazy. There’s wire mesh fence separating us from the crowd but by the last few overs, people were pressed up against it, recording us, taking photos and screaming for us as we danced. There was security there but they DM1_9920.jpgwerent doing a thing about it, I’m sure it wasnt safe. I’ve never felt more like a zoo animal in my life. Dont get me wrong, part of me loves the attenion and feeling like Princess Diana, waving at kids and so on. But sometimes it can be overwhelming. Sometimes I feel like we’re glorified sex objects. They put us in these tiny white dresses that Indian women would never wear and dangle us in front of the specators to whip them into frenzies like this. My brain is having a hard time rationializing it all. I really had no idea how much of a big deal this job is but cricket and the IPL means so much to people here and is such a huge part of their culture. But so is sexism.

There’s been a little bit of drama in our house (on a contract abroad?! What a shock!). I won’t get into it but it resulted in our boss flying up from Mumbai and us getting new management which has worked out for the best. But we also lost two of our girls, who went home for their own personal reasons and who were both very sick while they were here. So that sucked. But while the boss lady was here, she and our landlord took us out to party Delhi style. We went for pre drinks at our landlords beautiful home, complete with staff, where we were fed pizza, sushi and Chinese food and met a ton of his equally rich and IMG-20180427-WA0053fancy mates. I’ll say this about the class division in India… the rich are feckin RICH! We all bundled off to the launch of a new bar in the Shangri-la Hotel (notions!) where there was an open bar and everything was gold and Gatsby-esque. The place aslo happened to be a fishing spot for Eastern European sex workers so I was warned to be extra careful who I spoke to. We went on to the club next door afterwards and it was VIP access with enough free booze to poison an army. I had jager and champagne poured directly into my mouth and vodka into my eyes, although that was an accident. It was a seriously savage night, we just had SO much fun together but its definitely a IMG-20180427-WA0029.jpgweird experience going out with such wealthy people and doing the whole VIP thing. Again, it kind of felt like we were exotic pets, brought out and put on show in order to make other people look good. It’s a dynamic Im not entirely comfortable with.

Myself and two of the other girls, Kat and Dayna, had been asked to Pondicherry, way down the south of India, to work at a corporate gig there for our company. We flew to Chennai two days later, then drove 3 hours to get to the event. We were entertainment for the end of a big tech conference in this hotel and we choreographed five different routines for it. Everything was fine except the audience was pretty much only men. Very drunk men I might add. It was such an unpleasant atmosphere because although our costumes were modest by western standards, they all behaved like they had never seen a collar bone in their lives. I’ve never been in a situation where I felt so objectified in my life. Not even dancing on the bar in Coyotes to lads on stag dos. It was horrible really. A bunch of them also figured out what room we were staying in at the hotel and kept coming to our door and trying to open it with their keys. Nightmare material. They fecked off eventually and me and the gals grabbed two hours sleep before getting up at 3 am for our 7 hour trip back to Delhi. Not keen to repeat that particular job.

Then yesterday, it was our Daynas 22nd birthday. I’m surrounded by youths! We doted on her with cake and prezzies to beat the band, then went out to this unreal Italian restaurant in our square which is co owned by our landlord. 20180501_201849Apparently it’s one of the best in all of India, with a price tag to match. But it was so worth it. My chips were cooked in truffle oil and I finally got to eat red meat again after a month! I had pork in my lasagna and I don’t know when I last savoured food like that. It felt like my own bloody birthday!

Then to get back to the cricket, we played Chennai Super Kings in Pune a few days ago, where they beat us by a IMG-20180501-WA0045.jpgtiny margin. Raging, but the blow was softened by the incredible hotel we were staying in. Pool, ridiculous buffet breakfast and lunch and my own room all to myself… Yeah we liked Pune! And I’ve just come in the door from our latest match in Kotla Stadium in Delhi. We beat Rajasthan Royals by 5 runs, even though we had to put the game on hold twice for this unholy thunder storm that dropped an ocean on us.

So another action packed few weeks. Planning a ttrip to the one and only Taj Mahal soon, our last away match in Hyderabad and plenty more besides. Stay tuned!